A big first week!

Times have changed here in Korea. Where you used to see villagers towing rice carts, you now see...

the whole look

CRAZY HATS!

'windy city' is a popular one

Yep it's about time for a hat craze! All the kids are wearing these adorable hats.

Chicago hats

Oakland is pretty popular too for some reason

bragging rights

They hardly even know what they mean! It's fun for the whole family.

the wearer of this shirt wins

Speaking of fashion, it's always fun to see what sort of topics clothes will take on. This one provides a fine example of how a cutltural divide can cause strife and still encompass something you want to wear (on a t shirt). It's also nicely ironic.

Smile for the police cameras!

We started our trip this time in Seoul, making our way through the streets looking for deals and delights. There are so many attractions in Seoul - you can even use the police stations as a photo op.

big 5

This is a sheet music store, which highlights 5 great composers in the window. I think that's the proprietor of the shop on the left - he's in good company.

hello shoppers

I was almost too scared to walk across this window on the floor, but I tried it and lived. It was sort of a let down.

Elevator warning

Something I haen't yet commented on here. Walking, driving, commuting, everywhere in Korea, it seems there are so many signs. Signs instructing you not to touch, not to sit, to stand, watch your head, wait in line, push or pull (most of the doors swing both ways but they still feel the need to put a push or pull sign on them).

Revolving door warning

They can also have some really funny graphics on them, which display the disastrous consequence if you don't obey. I present some priceless illustrations of what can happen if you try to touch this revolving door while it's moving.

say what

Along with the overwhelming amount of instructional signs, of course there are tons of advertisements. Ads that sing and dance and generally tend to annoy me. Most of the ads include strange english phrases that make little to no sense. Apparently even US companies are guilty of this - Dunkin' created this gem. That dude's scarf and charm bracelet are totally cool.

want some spray soup with that burger, Mr. Prez?

There are also some artsy ads too, like this storefront for a burger joint. It's good to know that while the president can't get anything done with domestic legislation, at least he can sell some burgers abroad.

McRon's scooter

And speaking of burgers, what if you're stuck somewhere and crave some food folks and fun? No problem here in the delivery capitol of the world. Everything can be delivered including... well everything - all via little "auto bai" like this one. Your big mac is safe inside the McDelivery box. Also, don't touch that back part of the scooter!

lovely desserts

Pat bing soo! This is maybe the one thing you wouldn't want delivered, because it's a medley of crushed ice other sweet things. The typical mix-ins include azuki beans (the "pat"), ice cream / milk, fruit, nuts, and dduk (rice cake). Then there are the gross toppings like cereal and this powder that tastes like sugary sawdust to me. Here we have a lovely cocktail umbrella and breadsticks. Also, the blueberry smoothie in a jar is served on a handmade doily, supercute!

advertising!

The next leg of our tour took us to Janghyeon, a suburb of Seoul. It's a little rural out here, and you get some of the coutry folk's charming display of gruesome sights at the butcher shop. Inside there were other unmentionables, but I guess it's nice to know where your beef came from. Yep, that cow had a head too, and here it is for your inspection.

veggies!

For less gruesome sights, head over to the market on market day. It's like the whole town shows up to buy and sell on the sidewalks, which are barely wide enough to walk on without tents and racks. I really love these mobile markets, they often have great deals. But even more important, they're tons of fun. You haven't lived until you've been repeatedly shoved in the back by an old lady trying to get her ingredients before dinner.

stack o' fish

This market was even more special than most because this was the last one before the big harvest holiday of Chuseok. As I've mentioned, everybody goes back to their mom's place to share in traditions of gluttony. There were a bunch of gift pack displays like this set of 5 fish. Nothing says "I love you" more than fish you're too stuffed to eat!

bibim mook

We got hungry and stopped for some icy cold bibim mook. This is a local favorite that's become quite famous at this market. Mook is a jelly made from acorns, which sounds a little gross, and it often is. Not the case here. This mook had a really nice firm texture, and the "bibim" part mixed in a whole lot of fun veggies. I don't always eat mook, but when I do, I prefer it iced with kimchi.

BOOR + beer and makgeolri

We wrapped up in Janghyeon with a classic combo: fried chicken and beer. Korean beer is pretty close to the major American beers - watery lager. It goes well with spicy food. We also added some makgeolri to the mix for an extra kick. That's the Korean rice wine that gives a nice headache in the morning. It's worth it. This "Boor Chicken" place's logo looks familiar...

rockin out

Finally, it was time to hit the road and head out to Buseok for Chuseok the sequel. I've commented on the traffic ordeal it is to get away from Seoul at this time of year, so we headed out at 4:30am. That wasn't fun. But this guy at the rest stop made it all worth while. The rest stops in Korea, as I've mentioned, are totally unlike any rest stop you've been to in the US. We actually stopped at one old rest stop by mistake, and my brother in law joked that it was an American rest stop. We then made it over to this real Korean one. Funny story - we then had to wait in a long line at 7am to get coffee and snacks at the real rest stop because there were so many people there. While they waited in line, I got to take some great photos of this guy.

can't let that branch go to waste

Also, great photo op number 2. I've also commented on how much Koreans love the conspicuous display of phallus with their folk art. This was an amusing reminder. All in all a great rest stop experience. It was puncuated at the end when my brother in law threw his coins at the kids working the snack counter. They were too busy and lazy to sell him the fish cake he wanted. Definitely the most exciting morning I've ever had before 7am.

the new deck in Buseok

And finally we made it back to mom's place in Buseok! It's changed a bit since the last time I was here. There are some cute new grape vines growing above the porch.

Buseok's traffic circle

There are some new traffic circles at previously death trap intersections.

Buseok's coffee shop

And there's even a proper coffee shop! Not sure if I'll have time to try it this trip since I'm too stuffed.

Buseok's new park

Also, there's a new park that opened up at the entrance to town, partly in an effort to redirect traffic away from the temple for which Buseok is known. It's long been a complaint of the townspeople that the buses taking tourists to the temple skip the town entirely, and just drop them at the little cottage market that's grown around the temple's parking lot. The town has missed out on a lot of tourism because of this. Well finally, they've changed the bus routes and the town has some new life in it!

rock in the park of Buseok

Not to end on a down note, but this rock is a somewhat literal reminder of the scars left by the Japanese occupation. This huge slab of granite marks the entrance to the park, and is emblazoned with a Japanese territorial marking. The cut marks were an attempt to break the rock apart and remove it, but eventually this was given up due to the size of the rock. it's been here since as a historical marker.

Welcoming committee

Thanks, rail guy!

It's another edition of the 'lander coming at you with almost no sleep. I've probably complained about jet lag before, and I don't do that sleeping on planes thing, much less with that in the middle seat thing. Hey it's 4pm Central! More to come after the melatonin kicks in tonight. I'm assuming people use it to go to sleep. So far, I think it's more useful as a waste of money.

Tour de Thailand

fire show!
Thailand is known to be one of the best places in the world for beaches and islands. There are many islands that dot the vast coasts of the mainland, each with their own character and charm (from what I've read). We only had time to visit a couple of islands on this short trip, but I think we made the most of it. There's a long standing fire show culture here in the islands of Thailand, and the almost exclusively young men that perform have amazing talent.

Erawan Shrine

This shrine is interesting. First off, Thailand is known to be a mostly Buddhist country, but there are many influences of Hinduism, both subtle and overt. This shrine was built in honor of the Hindu creation god Brahma. It's called the Erawan Shrine because it was constructed in 1956 as part of the now-defunct Erawan hotel. According to Hindu real estate gurus, the site of the hotel was believed to have strong karmic power with the surrounding city. Somehow, the foundation of the hotel was laid on the wrong date. In order to appease Brahma, superstitious government officials mandated the shrine's construction on this bustling street corner. It's still the most visited religious place in the country, as even non-Hindu faithful see fit to pay continual respects. These respects come in the form of lovely flower wreaths that are laid at the base of the shrine. There are some licensed merchants at the entrance of the shrine that sell these wreaths, and by midday the stack is tremendous. They even have employees whose sole responsibility is to manage the stack of flowers so that the shrine isn't completely obscured.

relax, Buddha

The other most visited religious place in Thailand is Wat Pho (Temple of Pho). It's famous for its huge statue of a reclining Buddha, one of the very few depictions of Buddha in this position. Usually Buddha is sitting or standing, but how appropriate that the laid-back culture here produced Buddha on break.

lotus blossom at Wat Pho

Wat Pho is home to many other statues of Buddha as well as some impressive towers. It also has many nice lotus flowers which continually bloom from their mucky soiled pots. The lotus blossom represents the pure quest of enlightenment to rise unstained above the tainted waters of desire and attachment. It's a beautiful symbol used throughout Buddhist art, and it's pure serenity to see the real thing which thrives in the Thai climate.

temple cats

Above the fray of desire, perhaps without attachment, here's one of the temple's cute cats. They run about completely unchecked and unhinged from the worries of the material world. After all, I'm sure they're well fed by the variety of food sources about this tourist attraction and residence. I may have actually seen more cats than monks at this place.

watch out tourists

And of course, every tourist destination in Thailand wouldn't be complete without a little hustle. You've been warned!

Changover

Another warning: avoid the Chang in quantity. I thought it was Thailand's most famous beer for a reason, and apparently that reason is because it's a headache in a bottle. I was lucky enough to get this info from an expat early in the trip, or I would have been left wondering why I felt so sick throughout the rest of the trip.

the simple pleasures, hangover free

Ah the best things in life are cheap, and Leo beer is definitely that. Highly recommended for a sunny beach cafe.

big American sundae!

Of all the ice cream brands, you probably wouldn't have expected to find this one in the land of smiles. Good ol' Swensen's is still going strong here, and not without a host of crazy American sundaes. Thanks for adding significantly to my caloric intake, Swensen's. After all, it's one of the few places guaranteed to have a/c and ice cream.

mr. komodo dragon

It's fun to see a giant lizard in the park. He's only a little shy of people.

sweet hut

We had a little down time before going to the airport in Phuket, so we grabbed a few hours rest in this hut on the beach. At $10 per night, you get a nice bedroom with a fan (+ mosquito net), and a bathroom with cold water. Survivable, but I'm glad we opted for hotels (with a/c).

mighty king!

Here's one hotel we stayed in. Most of the major buildings here have large decorated pictures of the king. This isn't just propaganda, the king is actually quite popular. He's an avid jazz musician and composer, and has demonstrated himself as a man of the people.

VW bus bar

Another example of fun in Thailand - the creative little bars that open on the streets at night. They range from a simple cart to a full blown converted van like this. They tend to be a little cheaper than a bar with a permanent roof, but offer most of the same services and drinks. All that's missing is the toilet.

taxi scan

In case you want to find that cab you left your durian in last night - you can easily scan these cabs and... I don't know what you'd do with it. I suppose Thais take their fleet management seriously.

condom lamps

Cabbages and Condoms is a famous restaurant in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok. Everything in the place is made of condoms. Statues, lamps, wall decorations, you name it. Taking the theme of family planning too far is the mission of this place. It was actually started as a non-profit to raise awareness and funds for birth control. The name comes from a founder's belief that for birth control to be successful, it has to be as easily accessible as cabbage. I think the mission is actually accomplished here in Thailand - you don't get pre-stocked cabbage in your hotel room. And the food was decent, though I've had better Thai food in the states.

we salute you, BK

I have to admit that I broke down and ate at Burger King once. It was actually far more expensive than BK in the USA. Kudos to your luxurious international enterprise, BK.

sweet home

On the other hand, I didn't get a taste of home at the steakhouse here in Phuket. It might have been fun to get some filet and mashed potatoes beachside, but you have to save some things for the imagination.

they actually have a website - http://thaitaco.com/

Yes, I did try the Thai fish taco. It was somewhere in the top 50% of tacos I've eaten. Check out the website for some awesome photos that might make you think this place is a tourist trap. It is, but the food was unexpectedly tolerable.

the floods begin

As you may have heard, Bangkok is suffering from tremendous flooding. This was just beginning as I was leaving town. It was already clear that there were some serious water problems. We didn't know at the time that waters would continue to rise, since it's supposed to be the end of the rainy season. Unfortunately, there have been record rainfalls in the areas that feed the river, so Bangkok isn't in good shape.

boats in rainy Phi Phi

Ok, I came to Thailand during the rainy season, so I expected at least a few rainy days. This was pretty much the only one - just as we arrived in Koh Phi Phi, the clouds began to clear for the evening. The island transformed from deserted to crowded almost immediately.

on the streets of Phi Phi

Phi Phi island is a fantastic place. The streets come alive during the day with markets, dive shops, restaurants, and of course bars. There are probably more bars per capita here than anywhere else, if only because the local population is so small. There are no motorized vehicles allowed on the island, so everything is carted around in large wheelbarrows. Some people scoot around on electric mopeds, but you'd really have a hard time gaining any momentum without stopping for pedestrians every 50 feet. The island is a good balance of having a fun night life and a serene set of beaches you can lounge on.

Phi Phi viewpoint

This is pretty much the whole island. The two beaches you can see here are quite nice, the northern one more so. There are a few other beaches scattered around the island - you have to take a boat or hike over the mountains.

Beachin'

At night, this northern beach of Lodalum Bay is filled with the lights and music of outdoor dance floors that line the shore. Staying in this vicinity is definitely not for the peace and quiet seeker. It's a great night spot.

kiss the fish, captain obvious

Among the most useless of signs, it's still worth noting. As I mentioned, there are plenty of places to over imbibe.

it's like my Lonely Planet book cover

It's hard not to take a beautiful photo here. The longtail boats are somewhat anachronistic and remarkably similar in their design. They're the main transportation around the island.

on the boat to Maya bay

We chartered one such boat to take us to the infamous island of Phi Phi Leh - on a boat like Leo.

well fed monkeys

One stop along the way to Phi Phi Leh - it's the monkey beach. I don't really understand how this beach full of monkeys got started, but it's certainly a great place to bring your extra snacks in exchange for a fat monkey's gratitude.

about to arrive at Koh Phi-Phi Leh

There are two ways into the island - this is the hard way. I had to jump off the anchored boat and swim to the staircase you can see in the photo. It was all the more challenging because the waves are quite strong against the rocks at the base of the stairs. Fortunately, there are a bunch of ropes to hang on to once you're in the neighborhood of these stairs.

Maya Bay

Beautiful Maya Bay is the other way into the island. It's somewhat spoiled by the boatloads of tourists that arrive every few minutes on a beached yacht. Longtail boats seem disallowed from entering the bay, just the big cruisers can unload here. Naturally, I was happy that I arrived on the superior side of the island, which actually requires some effort to enjoy this almost unpopulated island. Anyway, it's quite lovely between boat arrivals.

the cheery boatman

Our boat's captain was an awesome tour guide, despite the fact that he spoke little English. You don't really need language with beautiful scenery.

bye bye Phi Phi!

The ferry boat from Phi Phi to Phuket takes 1.5 hours. It leaves time for photos and views of all the little islands that dot the way back. It's sad to leave such an awesome place, but you've got to save some for next time. Until then, I'll stick to the K-land, which is still my favorite. Sorry Thailand, but I hope to see you again soon!